![]() One occurrence I noticed people having that I also experienced at first, was a low rpm stumble when throttle was applied, that went away with the 160 tube. I was going to try a 160 tube and open up the main nozzle alot more to get more fuel to the top, then slowly open up the smaller holes to see if that helped balance it better, but there could be a better way like you mentioned. if I could get that pocket to lean out w/o affecting the rest of the run, or vice versa then I think I could get closer to 17. it did lean out center substantially drilling out the smaller air holes, but still have a really fat pocket 4600-5600 Lambda. the power over the 390 tube was significant, and the balance was much better. I left the 160 main nozzle same dimension, and drilled all the smaller holes out, I did it several times and ended at. 041/.026 on a factory 390 tube if I remember correctly, which was was actually one of the better runs, but the fuel was still off. I read a thread Jody from arc responded to and I think he said he was at a. I build a good amount of quarter midget motors, and jr sprint motors so I don't get alot of time to goof around with carb modifications and the effects of the changes so I was having alot of fun really. But that little quad still hauls lol.Ĭlick to definitely is tricky. ![]() I tried a ton of different combinations with the stock 390 etube, and I heavily modified one and it had worse issues than i faced with the 160 tube, it seemed to respond better to each modification i made. i need to lean out the center, or richen the low and high so i can balance the run. I want to try some more testing with a different 160 etube. The fuel signal Is super lean up front and back, while 4600-5600rpm is still too rich. But I had to drill out all the holes to get to where it is, and its way more balanced that it was but its still off. Ended up making the most power with a 160 e tube, made 16hp at 7400 on my dyno, modified dynomite water brake w/ performance trends software. Made multiple main and pilot jet changes for each tube. I tried the factory e tube, i tried a factory e tube with modified nozzle length, and i tried a gx160 etube. Head is factory valves and ports, but i softened up shortsides, and blended intake with epoxy, also cut off around. standard bore 390 carb, port matched and blended for filter adaptor, removed governor. Legit offer.I built a 160, standard bore, mod2 cam, factory rotating assembly, pvl, stock honda coil, 26#spring (if i remember right its been 2 years since i ordered them). If you try it and post back your actual results (positive or otherwise), I will buy you a beer. I anticipate you will have an open minded audience. If your concept indeed works out, post back with your findings. You can follow their advice or your hunch. ![]() You may very well be correct, but people here with a lot of experience with these engines seem to be of a different view. It appears as if you are asking someone to confirm what you are thinking. It is about the ability of the engine to hold those higher RPMS when you drop a load on it. The work of a snowblower starts when you get it up to a higher RPM. Low end torque matters in a go-cart as you start at lower RPMS and are trying to get it up to speed. Spend some time around here and read past Honda threads, and you will note that these guys are the experts. You have perhaps the two most knowledgeable people on the forum when it comes to Honda blowers answering your questions. If you were confident in these matters you would not be asking questions. Click to expand.You are not contributing to knowledge you are asking questions.
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